HELP!! MSD hookup?

[Lin,s GS]

This is probably a stupid question. Im replacing my old Stinger S4 with a MSD digital 6+. In the MSD instructions it says to connect the orange wire to the + side of the coil "This is the ONLY wire that makes electrical contact with the positive coil terminal." but I also have a red wire that T's into a cloth looking wire and goes down to, I think the starter. When it says the ONLY wire does it mean the only wire from the MSD or the only wire period.
Thanks in advance you guys havent let me down yet!
Lin

[jamyers]

Sounds like that's the old points coil feed wire?

How does a Stinger hook up - same as points?

[Lin,s GS]

I ran out to the shop and took another look, and found my old Stinger instructions. The stinger box gets its power from the + side of the coil. The MSD has two seperate wires one for the + side of the coil and another for turning the box off and on "switched 12v sorce such as an ignition key or switch" I took it from the MSD directions I dont want to run them both to the coil. I guess that answers that Question. Now can I just get rid of the red wire that splices into the cloth wire or should I use it for a switched 12v source to power the MSD. I put the Stinger on 20yrs ago so I dont really remember the way the points hooked up, but It looks like other than the 2 wires going from the coil to the Stinger box and 2 lines coming out to the pickup on the distributor, to put points back in all you would hafta do is run a wire from - coil to the points, disconnect the feed wire from the + coil and your back to points.
I hope this all makes sence, its really not worded well.
Thanks
Lin

[jamyers]

Makes sense...I think.:LAUGH:

MSD boxes like full 12 volts, although I've heard here that they'll work with much less. So...you can get rid of and replace the red wire, here's why:

The original wiring for the points-setup has that red wire to the coil as the 'power feed', it supplies a full 12V when cranking (coming from the starter relay) and about 5V when running (comes from the ignition switch to a resistor wire between the firewall and a splice with the 12V cranking wire). With the MSD box, you don't need any of that, just the "switched 12V source".

On mine, I opened up the harness, removed the 12V leg coming from the starter, and replaced the 5V resistor wire going to the firewall plug with a regular wire for the full 12V. Like the MSD instructions say, don't hook ANYTHING else up to the coil except the MSD coil leads - they'll have about 400V or better in them, and you'll fry anything else connected to them.

What sort of trigger does the Stinger use? Sounds like an electronic one, which you may be able to use with the MSD. I know you can use points as a trigger, but an electronic pickup should be more accurate.

[71stage1conv]

I seem to recall several MSD units burn up due to the coil. If you check with MSD, I'm pretty sure they will tell you that you must use their coil.:CRAP: To me, it doesn't seem worth the risk. MSD has a website, maybe see what they have to say.:TH:

http://www.msdignition.com/

[jamyers]

MSD does recommend their coils but it's not a hard recommendation (seems to mostly be a recognition that there are some really junk coils out there). But they do strongly recommend (as do others) that if you're using an oil-filled coil you mount it upright and not on its side.

I've used an HEI coil and a NAPA coil with 6A boxes for quite awhile without problem on two vehicles, I think most people's MSD troubles stem from poor wiring or other user errors. Make SURE it's wired according to the MSD diagrams before you turn anything on!

[LARRY70GS]

This is probably a stupid question. Im replacing my old Stinger S4 with a MSD digital 6+. In the MSD instructions it says to connect the orange wire to the + side of the coil "This is the ONLY wire that makes electrical contact with the positive coil terminal." but I also have a red wire that T's into a cloth looking wire and goes down to, I think the starter. When it says the ONLY wire does it mean the only wire from the MSD or the only wire period.
Thanks in advance you guys havent let me down yet!
Lin

All MSD boxes hook up the same way. This is very simple. There are 2 large gauge wires that hook directly to the battery(red to +, black to -). Then there the smaller + and - coil wires. Orange is +, black is -. These are the only 2 wires that go to the coil, period. The original + coil wire connects to the small red wire of the MSD box. All that wire does is turn the box on. If you are using the Stinger distributor to fire the MSD box, you need to clip off the white Stinger connector and replace it with this MSD connector.
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?lang=-1&catalogId=10002&storeId=10001&categoryId=17461&searchItemId=31691

Then just plug it in. If you are using a points distributor, then the wire that went to the - side of the coil gets connected to the MSD white wire. Your tach gets connected to the tach output on the box. That's it.

[LARRY70GS]

The only issue with connecting a Stinger Distributor to the MSD is getting the polarity right. If you reverse it, the engine timing will be very advanced. Just reverse your connections if this occurs. On the MSD Magnetic pickup connection, violet is +, green is - The White Stinger connector should have a green paint mark on one side. That is + Hope that helps.

[Lin,s GS]

I called MSD tech and they said I could dead end the red wire or use it as a switched 12v source. I have a cylinoid connected to a ignition switched 12v that I have hooked all accesories to and had planned on using it to power the MSD. So should I still replace the cloth wire or does it have a purpose now?
On another post (290-08H timing ?) Larry70GS said my Stinger distributor will work fine and recomended a MSD 2 prong connecter (which I got) MSD agreed and said the Stinger coil will work.
The Stinger S4 is a magnetic/electronic conversion designed to back the timing off 4* in the upper RPM's (very popular on Buicks in the 80's) Ive had good luck with it but need MSD;s start retard and rev limiter.
I try to do all the work on my 71 GS myself (though not qualified) and you guys make it so much easier THANKS.
Lin

[Lin,s GS]

Thanks Larry by the time I got my reply typed you have responded twice Im no better at typing than wiring.
So should I run the small red MSD wire to the red wire that used to go to the coil or to my switched 12v source by the fuse panel (Im worried about the cloth wire now)
Thanks
Lin

[LARRY70GS]

Thanks Larry by the time I got my reply typed you have responded twice Im no better at typing than wiring.
So should I run the small red MSD wire to the red wire that used to go to the coil or to my switched 12v source by the fuse panel (Im worried about the cloth wire now)
Thanks
Lin

The cloth wire is the points resistance wire. It may work fine, after all, it simply turns the box on. Try it, it can't hurt.

[Lin,s GS]

I got it mostly hooked up tonight, but decided to pull the dist. and make some custom bushings to shorten the advance so it will probably be the weekend, before I have it running I will let you know how it comes out.
With your advice im pretty confident about the project.
Thanks again
Lin

[Lin,s GS]

I got the MSD hooked up, using the red wire that went to the coil it seems to work just fine (cant drive it its been raining) I pulled my distributor to shorten the curve saw my bronze distributer gear was getting bad so I just stuck it back in until my new gear arrives, to see if the MSD would work. The 20* start retard is to much with the 12* mechanical advance I have now but when I put in my light weights and heavy springs and Idle it at 30* it idles good and starts eazy but climbs to 42* total (I guess) Do you think it would be best to lock it down at 30 to 36* or try to get it limited to 4 to 6* mechanical advance? And how do you lock in the advance? I dont want to do anything perminant so I can experiment.
Thanks for all your help
Lin

[Lin,s GS]

I made an advance bushing that totally locks the timing. I got the distributor back in and something is wrong the timing is all over the place and my timing light acts like the MSD is cutting out at least #1 cylinder every once in a while because my timing light is firing irradicly and timing bounces (I tested my light on my BBC mud truck and its fine) Every once in a while the car backfires (BAD) When I put the distributor back in I tried to start the car without the distributor plugged in (did I fry the MSD) or could my spark plug wires be arking, they are fairly well seperated and in good shape but they are old? Or is 30*+ to much at idle and I should make a advance bushing with just 5 or 6* and turn off the start retard. Just incase the start retard is kicking in at idle I turned the idle to 1100 (no help) At this point I wish I would have just left my stinger on and shortened the advance curve and spent my money on a mini starter.
Im pulling my hair out, can this combo be this hard to get right?
Any advice would be great.
Thanks Lin
P.S. before I locked down the timing none of this trouble existed(I started it this morning before I pulled the distributor It idled fine at 30* but climbed out of site when reved up.)

[Smartin]

..almost sounds like your distributor is off a tooth.

[LARRY70GS]

I made an advance bushing that totally locks the timing. I got the distributor back in and something is wrong the timing is all over the place and my timing light acts like the MSD is cutting out at least #1 cylinder every once in a while because my timing light is firing irradicly and timing bounces (I tested my light on my BBC mud truck and its fine) Every once in a while the car backfires (BAD) When I put the distributor back in I tried to start the car without the distributor plugged in (did I fry the MSD) or could my spark plug wires be arking, they are fairly well seperated and in good shape but they are old? Or is 30*+ to much at idle and I should make a advance bushing with just 5 or 6* and turn off the start retard. Just incase the start retard is kicking in at idle I turned the idle to 1100 (no help) At this point I wish I would have just left my stinger on and shortened the advance curve and spent my money on a mini starter.
Im pulling my hair out, can this combo be this hard to get right?
Any advice would be great.
Thanks Lin
P.S. before I locked down the timing none of this trouble existed(I started it this morning before I pulled the distributor It idled fine at 30* but climbed out of site when reved up.)

If you have the polarity wrong on the magnetic pickup, the timing will be very advanced. Reverse the wires on the magnetic pickup, and see if that helps.

[Lin,s GS]

Thanks guys but im still scratching my head. Adam lord knows Ive been wrong before but I didnt think 1 tooth out would make any difference if you had enough adjustment. But you are right I got it one tooth out from what it was in at, I will reset it tomorrow (is this something the MSD is picking up on?)
Larry I used the 2 prong MSD connecter from Jegs you reccomended and it is notched where it only plugs in one way (MSD violet wire to Stinger green painted wire)
I will double check all this tomorrow.
Thanks
Lin

[LARRY70GS]

Thanks guys but im still scratching my head. Adam lord knows Ive been wrong before but I didnt think 1 tooth out would make any difference if you had enough adjustment. But you are right I got it one tooth out from what it was in at, I will reset it tomorrow (is this something the MSD is picking up on?)
Larry I used the 2 prong MSD connecter from Jegs you reccomended and it is notched where it only plugs in one way (MSD violet wire to Stinger green painted wire)
I will double check all this tomorrow.
Thanks
Lin

It may still be reversed. There were alot of different color combos on the Stinger pickup. Being one tooth off will only affect the range of timing adjustability. Also be aware that some timing lights will not read the MSD multiple sparks correctly. That may also be a problem.

[Lin,s GS]

Larry I think the timing light may be at fault its old and a cheap one at that, I still use the 30* mark on the balancer. But the light read fine this morning before I pulled the distributor, and same thing with the way the +@- leads are plugged in (everything was fine except I had to much mechanical advance) I hope I didnt fry the MSD trying to start it without the distributor pluged in. Getting the Dist one tooth out and locking down the timing are the only changes since everything worked.
Thanks
Lin

[LARRY70GS]

Don't worry about the MSD. Cranking the engine without the distributor plugged in is fine. I do that all the time after an oil change to fill the filter before starting the engine. Try a different timing light. Sears makes a great one that is very reasonably priced. You may not be adequately disabling the mechanical advance. The bushing you made may have fallen out or slipped. Verify that. Good luck.